Famous Cuts Brands: Hearts on Fire, Hearts and Arrows, A Cut Above

Sharif Khan
Sharif Khan
Last Updated    EST 
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People who buy diamonds usually look for carat, cut, and color. Talking about cuts, there are various unique branded cuts that prevail in the industry. Diamonds being extremely minute, creating shafts and cuts in them is no easy task. It is often said that the first diamonds in the world were found in the streams of the Himalayas in the ancient period. Due to its indestructible nature, the Latin traders called it "Adamas," the invincible. The English started calling it "adamant," which later became "diamante.”

The beauty of a diamond is enhanced through its cuts. At the same time, chiseling huge diamonds into small pieces is no breezy job. One wrong wedge might entirely ruin the sparkle of the diamond. Core mathematical calculations are necessary to cut huge diamonds into smaller pieces. They cannot be cut uniformly. They should be cut into various parts depending on the shape of the diamond. The traditional jewelry we buy usually falls under certain cuts like the princess cut, Adura cut, Ideal cut, Hearts on Fire, and Hearts and Arrows.

Check out this quick diamond-buying cheat sheet.

Hearts on Fire Diamond Cut

Hearts on Fire diamonds became associated with Valentine’s Day due to their great marketing. The Rothmans, who hailed from Boston, decided to try their luck in the wholesale diamond business by the late 1970s. Their breakthrough came in 1996 when one of the proprietors, Glenn, saw a uniquely cut diamond in Belgium. Susan and Glenn, the proprietors of Ruthman’s, were completely fascinated by the fiery heart cut they saw. They started a new brand-named Hearts on Fire and marketed the diamonds with this exclusive cut enormously. Within a decade, the company has grown into one of the most important brands in the world. To this date, they are the most sought around round cut diamonds by lovers worldwide.

Hearts and Arrows

Brian Gavin created this beautiful heart and arrows diamond cut in 1996. Examining closely, they will reveal several hearts in round shapes with several straight lines, which look like arrows in the middle. This round cut diamond is everything for people who look for high quality. Several variations of the hearts and arrows cuts started to flock to the market shortly after its inception. The inventor Brian Gavin introduced a standard and monitoring system that set the quality control for hearts and arrows cut. Today several machine-cut hearts and arrows diamonds are created. The best ones are the man-made ones which are rare to find. They, too, are created from simple round cut diamonds.

Famous Cuts by Shape

Asscher Cut Diamond

Square is the next most used diamond shape after the round. Asscher cut diamonds with various depths and layered step cut is the most famous cut preferred by the royal people. Since Asscher Diamonds holds patents for almost all their designs, diamonds with this cut can be found only with their customers who are royalty. They create customized pieces that are quite unique for each of their customers using the Asscher cut as the base. The diamonds’ depth and facets vary according to the size of the diamond.

Princess Cut Diamond

Princess cut diamond was created by Henry Grossbard in 1970. The Quadrillion Diamond company got the patent. Henry initially wanted to create jewelry based on the designs worn in the 1400s. He used an inverted pyramid as an inspiration. The symmetry and precision of the princess cut diamonds suited the various fancy stones, from emerald to marquise. But they became very famous in the diamond industry because they created little diamond loss when it was invented. Princess cut highly enhances the durability of the diamond. There are no sharp ends that will chip easily. Though it sparkles slightly less than round cuts, princess cut diamonds are economical and loved by most for their aesthetic beauty and special sentiment. The beauty of the princess diamond made it ideal for fixing engagement rings.

Round Cut Diamonds

A diamond becomes valuable because it sparkles better than any other stone. A diamond not cut properly will lose its light from the bottom and on the sides. Alternatively, the fire and brilliance in a diamond can be increased multifold if cut precisely to make light reflect through its topmost surface, often known as the crown. The round cut diamonds are neither too shallow nor too deep to allow light to escape from the bottom. Its sides are chiseled properly to prevent light from escaping from the sides. Tolkowsky, a noted mathematician and a master diamond cutter whose family had been in the trade for five generations, created a formula that helped manufacture perfect round cut diamonds. He simply collected and improvised on the techniques used by master cutters like Morse and Kaplan to create the perfect round cut formula. Since then, round cut diamonds have become the base of several other cuts.

See a full see list of our popular diamond shapes for engagement rings.

Other Common Diamond Cuts

The ancient cuts used to create jewelry for the royal princesses are the old eight cut or the table cut, rose cut, old mine cut, and the old European cut. The European Imperials and the Russian aristocrats were great fans of these diamond cuts. The most common diamond cuts used for commercial use are the princess cut and the Adura cut. Both diamonds can be found easily in most diamond stores worldwide.

Other notable cuts are Aglaia, Ageless fire diamonds created by Dave Nygaard, and the ideal cut diamonds made famous by Kaplan and Tolkowsky. Kaplan made the ideal cut diamond quite famous, teaching several factory workers the trade. Tolkowsky’s formula, which perfected it made creating such cuts quite easy. Hence, several companies started to produce them within a short time. Some famous companies upgraded the design by creating super-ideal cuts and cutting above the cut. These diamonds were of very high quality and did not come to mass production owing to high cost.

Check out our guides on halo engagement ringssettings, and custom engagement rings.