Hearts on Fire vs. Hearts & Arrows, A Cut Above, True Heart, & Astor Cut

Hearts on Fire diamonds became associated with Valentine’s Day thanks to their exceptional marketing efforts. The Rothmans, a couple from Boston, ventured into the wholesale diamond business in the late 1970s. Their breakthrough came in 1996 when Glenn Rothman discovered a uniquely cut diamond during a trip to Belgium.

Both Glenn and Susan Rothman were captivated by the fiery brilliance of the heart-shaped cut they encountered. Inspired by its beauty, they launched a new brand named Hearts on Fire, heavily promoting diamonds with this exclusive cut.

Within a decade, the company had grown into one of the most prominent diamond brands in the world. To this day, Hearts on Fire is renowned for producing some of the most sought-after round-cut diamonds, cherished by lovers worldwide.

Brian Gavin introduced the exquisite Hearts and Arrows diamond cut in 1996. Upon close examination, this round cut diamond reveals a symmetrical pattern of hearts when viewed from one side and arrows when viewed from the other, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship and precision. This cut has become synonymous with high quality, attracting those who seek perfection in their diamonds.

Following its inception, numerous variations of the Hearts and Arrows cut began to appear on the market. To maintain its reputation, Brian Gavin established a rigorous standard and monitoring system to ensure quality control for Hearts and Arrows diamonds.

Today, many machine-cut Hearts and Arrows diamonds are produced, but the finest examples remain the hand-crafted ones, which are rare and highly sought after. These masterpieces, crafted from simple round cut diamonds, demonstrate the artistry and skill required to achieve perfection.

Relatedly, check our diamond prices chart.

The A CUT ABOVE® diamond is the pinnacle of diamond artistry and precision, embodying the ultimate in brilliance, fire, and light performance. Created with exceptional craftsmanship, this Hearts and Arrows diamond cut is a true testament to the skill of master cutters who work with state-of-the-art technology to achieve perfect symmetry and unparalleled beauty. Each A CUT ABOVE® diamond undergoes rigorous selection, analysis, and certification, starting with high-quality rough crystals and culminating in an AGS Ideal light performance grade—the highest standard in the industry.

What sets this diamond apart is its meticulous attention to detail. Every facet is perfectly aligned to reflect and refract maximum light, creating a dazzling play of fire and brilliance from every angle. Its optical precision is validated through advanced imaging tests, including Ideal Scope, ASET Scope, and Hearts and Arrows Scope, ensuring it meets the most stringent criteria for light performance and cut quality.

The A CUT ABOVE® diamond is available in both round and princess cuts, with each gem featuring a flawless Hearts and Arrows pattern, a hallmark of perfect three-dimensional symmetry. Its rarity is further underscored by the fact that fewer than 10% of AGS Ideal diamonds qualify for this elite distinction. With its unmatched beauty and technical excellence, the A CUT ABOVE® diamond represents the pinnacle of luxury and sophistication, making it a treasure that will sparkle for a lifetime.

True Hearts™ diamonds by James Allen are the epitome of exceptional craftsmanship and brilliance, named for the intricate starburst pattern of hearts and arrows that marks the most ideal cut round diamonds. With perfect internal symmetry, proportions, and the highest grading for cut and polish, these diamonds stand as a testament to precision and beauty. When spun, a True Hearts™ diamond reveals arrows from above and hearts from below, showcasing its unparalleled optical perfection.

Representing the top 1% of diamonds worldwide, True Hearts™ diamonds are incredibly rare, making them as unique as the love they symbolize. Available in round, princess, and cushion cuts, each diamond is accompanied by a certificate from top grading laboratories like GIA or AGS, verifying its superior quality. Whether earth-created or lab-created, True Hearts™ diamonds maintain the same exceptional standards, offering brilliance, fire, and sparkle without compromise. For those seeking unmatched beauty and symmetry, True Hearts™ diamonds are truly in a league of their own.

Astor Ideal Cut Diamonds by Blue Nile™ are designed to offer maximum brilliance, fire, and scintillation, making them a standout choice for those seeking the ultimate in diamond sparkle. As the most important of the "4 Cs," the cut of an Astor diamond is perfected to reflect the greatest amount of light, creating a dazzling display of color and light that outshines other diamonds. Available in round, princess, and cushion cuts, each Astor diamond is carefully crafted to enhance its natural beauty, ensuring an extraordinary level of sparkle. Whether you're designing a breathtaking engagement ring or another cherished piece, the Astor Ideal Cut delivers unmatched radiance and is sure to make a lasting impression.

Round Cut Diamonds

A diamond becomes valuable because it sparkles better than any other stone. A diamond not cut properly will lose its light from the bottom and on the sides. Alternatively, the fire and brilliance in a diamond can be increased multifold if cut precisely to make light reflect through its topmost surface, often known as the crown. The round cut diamonds are neither too shallow nor too deep to allow light to escape from the bottom. Its sides are chiseled properly to prevent light from escaping from the sides. Tolkowsky, a noted mathematician and a master diamond cutter whose family had been in the trade for five generations, created a formula that helped manufacture perfect round cut diamonds. He simply collected and improvised on the techniques used by master cutters like Morse and Kaplan to create the perfect round cut formula. Since then, round cut diamonds have become the base of several other cuts.

Asscher Cut Diamond

Square is the next most used diamond shape after the round. Asscher cut diamonds with various depths and layered step cut is the most famous cut preferred by the royal people. Since Asscher Diamonds holds patents for almost all their designs, diamonds with this cut can be found only with their customers who are royalty. They create customized pieces that are quite unique for each of their customers using the Asscher cut as the base. The diamonds’ depth and facets vary according to the size of the diamond.

Princess Cut Diamond

Princess cut diamond was created by Henry Grossbard in 1970. The Quadrillion Diamond company got the patent. Henry initially wanted to create jewelry based on the designs worn in the 1400s. He used an inverted pyramid as an inspiration. The symmetry and precision of the princess cut diamonds suited the various fancy stones, from emerald to marquise. But they became very famous in the diamond industry because they created little diamond loss when it was invented. Princess cut highly enhances the durability of the diamond. There are no sharp ends that will chip easily. Though it sparkles slightly less than round cuts, princess cut diamonds are economical and loved by most for their aesthetic beauty and special sentiment. The beauty of the princess diamond made it ideal for fixing engagement rings.

Relatedly, explore a full list of our popular diamond shapes for engagement rings.

The ancient diamond cuts used to create jewelry for royal princesses are the old eight cut or table cut, rose cut, old mine cut, and old European cut. The European Imperials and Russian aristocrats were great fans of these diamond cuts. The princess cut and the Adura cut are the most common diamond cuts used for commercial purposes. Both can be found easily in most diamond stores worldwide.

Other notable cuts are Aglaia, Ageless fire diamonds created by Dave Nygaard, and the ideal cut diamonds made famous by Kaplan and Tolkowsky. Kaplan made the ideal cut diamond quite famous, teaching several factory workers the trade. Tolkowsky’s formula perfected it, making such cuts quite easy. Hence, several companies started to produce them within a short time. Some famous companies upgraded the design by creating super ideal cuts and cutting above the cut. These diamonds were of very high quality and did not come to mass production owing to high cost.

Relatedly, check out our guides on halo engagement rings, settings, and custom engagement rings.