Emerald Cut vs. Radiant or Cushion Cut

Sharif Khan
Sharif Khan
Last Updated    EST 
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Diamonds come in a variety of shapes, colors, and cuts. And finding the perfect one can be an enjoyable task or a harrowing undertaking. It depends on whether you know what to look for and have dotted all the I’s and T’s in your research. To help you search for that perfect diamond, here’s some information on some of the unique stones available in the market: emerald, cushion, and radiant cut.

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Emerald Diamonds

Emerald cut diamonds are among the most unique cuts currently available. Only 3% of diamonds made are emerald stones. These diamonds are sometimes called step cuts because of their parallel facets. When viewed from the top, a well-cut emerald will exhibit a large transparent, open flat surface. It has a long rectangular shape with parallel sides, cropped corners, and a larger-than-average face-up appearance. Emerald cut diamonds may not wear the crown for the shiniest stones, but they get major points for being uniquely elegant with their dramatic flashes of light.

emerald cut diamond l/w ratio

Radiant Diamonds

The radiant cut diamond resembles emerald cut diamonds: a rectangular or square-shaped crown with trimmed corners that add to its durability. Radiant cut stones are also fancy-shaped diamonds with a unique faceting pattern. It was the first to have a brilliant faceting pattern on the crown and the pavilion. As the name suggests, diamonds have a radiant sparkle and brilliance owing to the excellent light dispersion of their numerous facets, giving it just the right amount of wow factor to make you stand out.

cushion cut diamond

Cushion Diamonds

One of the first things you will notice in a cushion cut diamond is the pillow-like shape, rounded corners, and beveled edges. Its girdle is more rounded than the radiant cut, making its edges less angular and the corners less trimmed. These features give the crown a smaller face-up appearance. Even so, its superb brilliance and sparkle have inspired many gem cutters to imitate the cut to achieve a similar brilliant effect. Cushion cut diamonds come in three variations: antique cushion, brilliant, and modified cushion. The variants may be similar in cut but are quite different in brilliance and sparkle. You will often hear the terms “chunky” or “crushed ice” being bandied around. The marketing terminologies should not faze you as they refer to the different faceting patterns in the variations.

cushion cut diamond length to width ratio

Differences in Cut

Radiant Cut

Their cut determines the beauty of fancy-shaped diamonds. But, since the GIA does not grade on the cut, this quality is largely subjective. Still, an excellent cut diamond will have superb brilliance and sparkle; in that category, the radiant cut reigns supreme among the three cuts. The radiant diamond cutting style is classified as a hybrid cut because it uses brilliant and step-cut features. With the outline of the stone resembling that of step cuts, the pavilion and the table are cut similarly to brilliant cuts. The diamond gets its name from the exceptional radiance caused by the numerous triangular-shaped facets having excellent light dispersion. A distinctive cracked ice pattern is easily noticeable in its faceting pattern. One downside to this particular cut is the bowtie effect. Radiant cut stones with a too-shallow or too-deep cut will have a dark band stretching across the crown’s center, which dials the sparkling radiance.

Emerald Cut

Emerald diamonds are cut using the step-cut style with three rows of steps above and three rows of steps below the stone. The facets are arranged parallel to each other and to the girdle of the stone, giving the facets a linear, clean, and sleek look. The parallel arrangement of the facets also creates flashes of light in stark contrast to the dark planes in each step, attributed to the “halls of mirror effect.” The dramatic flashes lend emerald diamonds a soft, elegant glow rather than the sparkly shine found in brilliant cuts. Similar to the radiant cuts, the bowtie is also in poorly cut emerald stones. And given the diamond’s sizeable open table, the imperfection is magnified twice over. Even so, some people like bowtie’s effect on the overall appearance.

Cushion Cut

Cushion cut diamonds have one of the oldest cutting styles, invented in the early 1700s. Given the lack of electricity and limited tools, cutting diamonds was expensive and time-consuming. Manufacturers aimed to retain as much weight from the rough stone as possible to cut overhead costs. The resulting diamond- the original antique cushion, was square in shape with a deep pavilion, high crown, and small table. With the creation of more advanced cutting tools, the cutting style also evolved to create the cushion modified and the cushion brilliant variation. To tell them apart, identify the faceting pattern. Cushion modifications have no discernable pattern in the facets, and one often feels like they are looking at crushed ice. Its shortened pavilion mains shorten reflected light, leaking copious amounts of light that result in a stone with little sparkle and brilliance. In contrast, the faceting pattern in the cushion brilliant is crisp and clear with a star-like appearance. Having more pavilions than its counterparts, it has the best refractive quality, lending the stone excellent brilliance, sparkle, and fire.

Color Grade that Appears Colorless

The color grade D-F for any diamond cut will give the same exact color- colorless.

diamond color scale

Emerald cut diamonds are pretty good at showing color, such that if you want a colorless stone, you can’t skimp on this quality and go for lower color grade stone. H color emerald cut stones already have a yellowish tint with a slightly warmer appearance. Radiant cut and cushion brilliant cut diamonds are even better than emeralds at retaining color because of their exceptional brilliance and fire. With a clear metal setting, the radiant and cushion brilliant stones in the near-colorless grades G-I will capture the elusive colorless appearance.

Clarity Grade that Masks Inclusions

Usually, cushion cuts with a clarity grade higher than SI2 appear eye-clean. Because clarity depends on brilliance, the superior sparkle and fire in the cushion brilliant make it better at hiding imperfections than the other variations. What does this imply? For a cushion brilliant, one can go lower on the clarity scale as the brilliance will distract the eye from noticing inclusions. On the other hand, the lower sparkle in the cushion modification necessitates choosing stones higher in the clarity scale to get a stone with no visible imperfections.

diamond clarity scale

Radiant cuts are nothing but forgiving when it comes to hiding inclusions. That means you can go for an eye-clean lower color grade and save up to maximize on other qualities such as cut and color. The intense radiance of these diamonds makes it very hard to spot imperfections. Ideally, most SI1 and SI2 stones will be eye clean.

The imperfections in an emerald cut diamond are easily noticeable because of its large open, transparent table. Because of this, only stones with a clarity grade of VS2 or higher will have no imperfections visible to the naked eye. We would recommend VVS diamonds for emerald cut.

Appropriate Setting

Radiant cut diamonds look fabulous in various settings, from classic three-prong designs to a range of halo and non-halo settings. And since the edges are not susceptible to chipping, protective styles are unnecessary. The stone will look beautiful in platinum metal settings as the diamond’s superb brilliance and fire will be enhanced by the brightness of the metal.

Normally, emerald stones are mounted on classic or traditional designs. The halo settings can also offer a beautiful, unique alternative because of the contrast created by the dark planes, the flashes of light from the center stone, and the flashes from the pave diamonds surrounding it. Going for a modern design is an excellent way to achieve a traditional and modern look in one stunning piece of jewelry.

Cushion cuts also impress and enchant views in a wide range of designs. Mounting the stone in a four-prong setting allows more light to reflect on its surface, giving it an extra shine to its brilliance that will undoubtedly dazzle viewers. To draw attention to the exceptional sparkle, set the stone in a solitaire design where it is smack in the middle of the ring, and there is nothing to distract the eye from its magnificent brilliance.

These are only recommendations: the choice of setting is ultimately up to the buyer’s personal tastes and preferences.

Here is a list of our top emerald cut engagement rings, radiant cut engagement rings, and cushion cut engagement rings

Which one to Choose?

Choosing which cut to go for is a matter of individual tastes. Whether you prefer the cushion cut’s pillow-like shape and vintage-like appearance, or the dramatic flashes, cropped corners, and larger-than-average face-up appearance of the emerald cut diamond, or even the stunning radiance of the radiant cut- it is up to you. Check out our loose diamonds guide for more information.